Get ready for an exciting journey into the world of men's fashion! The Fall/Winter 2026 season is about to unfold, and we're kicking things off with a bang. The stage is set, and Florence and Milan are ready to showcase their creative prowess in the realm of menswear.
Carlo Capasa, the president of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI), emphasizes the importance of these cities as hubs for creative fashion and menswear. He highlights how identity, experimentation, and industry intertwine in a constant dialogue, shaping the future of this sector. With menswear showing signs of resilience amidst industry challenges, the upcoming season promises to be a captivating showcase of talent and innovation.
Let's dive into the highlights of this season's brands, shows, and events, starting with the renowned Pitti Uomo.
Pitti Uomo: A Global Showcase of Menswear Innovation
Pitti Uomo, in its 109th edition, will bring together over 750 brands from around the globe from January 13th to 16th. This season's theme, "motion," reflects the dynamic nature of menswear, its intersection with performance, travel, and everyday life.
One of the most anticipated guest designers is Paris-based Hed Mayner, who will make his Florentine debut. Mayner, known for his architectural silhouettes, has an impressive track record, having won the Karl Lagerfeld Award at the LVMH Prize in 2019. Previous guest designers include Martine Rose and Raf Simons, setting a high bar for this season's showcases.
"Hed Mayner's ability to balance poetry, comfort, freedom, and precision in his designs is truly remarkable," says Francesca Tacconi, special events coordinator of Pitti Immagine. "We're thrilled to welcome him to Pitti Uomo and witness his unique project for this occasion."
Pitti Uomo has also expanded its horizons, welcoming design talent from beyond Europe, particularly Japan. This season, we'll see an influx of emerging Japanese talent, including Shinyakozuka and Soshiotsuki, the latter being the LVMH Prize 2025 winner. These designers bring a fresh perspective to the fair, showcasing their unique East-meets-West tailoring.
In addition to the guest designers, Pitti Uomo will feature a collaboration between the Italian mill Vitale Barberis Canonico and Sebiro Sanpo, organizers of the Japanese Suit Walk. Around 100 influencers will take to the streets of Florence, showcasing suits crafted from the mill's renowned fabrics, creating a spectacle not to be missed.
Pitti mainstay Brunello Cucinelli will also hold several events, including a dinner, presentation, and a talk by Mr. Cucinelli himself, in collaboration with Mr Porter. The fair will introduce its HiBeauty fragrance space, catering to buyers interested in incorporating fragrance into their fashion concept stores.
Milan Fashion Week Men's: A Celebration of Diversity
Next, we head to Milan, where Milan Fashion Week (MFW) Men's will run from January 16th to 20th. With 18 physical shows and 36 presentations for FW26, the week promises an exciting lineup.
Many of Milan's leading brands, such as Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Tod's, Canali, Etro, and Bally, will host runway shows. Zegna, one of Milan's biggest menswear brands by revenue, will return on Friday afternoon after a one-off show in Dubai for SS26. DSquared2, after a two-season pause, will also make its comeback on Friday night. Chinese labels Pronounce and Li-Ning will showcase their collections, with Li-Ning making an unexpected runway debut on Saturday, celebrating movement.
The highly anticipated return of Ralph Lauren to the Milan runway, after more than 20 years, will be an intimate menswear show on Friday evening. While the brand has focused on scaling its womenswear, menswear remains its core business.
"Ralph Lauren's third menswear runway show is a rare treat," says Vogue's chief international correspondent Luke Leitch. "Prada, a Milan staple, is always a highlight, setting the tone for its womenswear collection and often featuring radical gestures."
Mr Porter's buying director, Daniel Todd, adds, "In Milan, we're excited to see the creative direction and color palettes at Zegna and Canali, as well as the technical fabrics from Stone Island. We're also on the lookout for new brands to bring on board for future seasons."
However, not all brands will be participating in men's fashion week. Gucci and Bottega Veneta have opted for co-ed shows in February, while Emporio Armani is restructuring its calendar, combining menswear with its womenswear shows. Giorgio Armani will present its first men's show since the passing of Mr. Armani in September, with Leo Dell'Orco taking the helm of menswear.
Beyond the Runways: A Rich Presentation Schedule
MFW Men's attendees will have a lot to explore beyond the shows. The presentation schedule for FW26 features Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana, and Canali, with Brunello Cucinelli being the most eagerly awaited. Tiziana Fausti, owner of 10 Corso Como, notes the focus on garment performance by many brands, a theme that has gained prominence in recent years.
Stone Island, for instance, has created a large-scale installation with visual media artist Ken-Tonio Yamamoto to showcase its new prototype collection, featuring 100 pieces in 100 different hues using the brand's unique lamination-on-knit technique. Ferragamo will return to the men's calendar with a footwear-focused presentation on Sunday.
As Leitch mentions, the Winter Olympics in nearby Cortina d'Ampezzo will add to the buzz this season. EA7, the Giorgio Armani-founded sportswear brand, will host an event during MFW Men's, celebrating its role as the official partner and outfitter of the Italian team for Milano Cortina 2026. French label K-Way will present a three-day event, "Montagna Milano: The Alpine Club in Town," in collaboration with Vogue and GQ, offering panels, workshops, and après-ski experiences.
The Frankie Shop, a French premium label, will transport select attendees to Cortina for an après-ski evening to celebrate its skiwear collection.
"This season's MFW Men's reflects the diverse needs of today's menswear consumer," says Fausti. "For FW26, we're seeking products with a distinctive trademark, combining technical innovation with refined design. Functional outerwear, cutting-edge fabrics, and comfort-focused construction are key."
Stay tuned for more insights and predictions on the Fall/Winter 2026 menswear trends, the new rules of menswear influencing, and insights from leading designers on the future of menswear.
